Travelling in the time of Covid – Kruger National Park – Day 5 – Skukuza to Tshokwane and Lower Sabie and Back.

When in Kruger it is early to bed and early to rise if you want to escape the heat and get the best sightings. It takes a day or two to get into this routine. This morning for the first time neither of us had any trouble rising before five o’clock. After a fortifying cup of coffee and a rusk we were out the gate by half past five. Yes, that is an hour after opening time and in the past we liked to be first out but those days are over. We actually find that the birding is better a little later.

Today the temperature was 23 degrees C when we left camp and it rose to 33 degrees C by ten o’clock.

It wasn’t long before we started seeing the animals, first up being the ever-present impala. Many tourist have bumper stickers reading, “Please pass, we stop for birds.” Or – “Birders on board, prone to sudden stops.” The Earl wants to get one that says, “Beware – we stop for everything!” Well – we do at the beginning but after the tenth lot of impala we tend to ignore them and drive past unless they’re being particularly engaging.

We also had fun watching many birds and our list is now up to 70 species. At the beginning of a trip new species get added to the list quite quickly and then slow down but this year we are taking a little longer to hit 100. I suspect it’s because some of the migrant birds have not yet arrived.

On the H4-1 we got a female Diederick’s cuckoo, monotonous lark, African Hoopoe, Rattling cisticola, Black-backed puffback, black-crowned tchagra and red-breasted swallow but our cutest encounter was with these arrow-marked babbler.

These arrow-marked babblers were grooming each other in the early morning sun
They also seemed to be deep in conversation. “Did you hear what Mabel did?”

They were most obliging and let us watch them for quite a while before flying off one at a time.

This black-crowned tchagra was not quite as confident and tried to hide from my camera

By seven o’clock we had reached the H1-2 and had some interesting sightings on our drive to Tshokwane Picnic site.

This baboon was lying flat and fast asleep until I disturbed him. He was not charmed by the disturbance to his morning nap.
Don’t you just hate it when this happens!
There were eight of these magnificent Ground Hornbill, three juveniles and five adults.

They were very close to the car and suddenly we heard a loud knock. One of them had pecked at the back door, The Earl thought it was in an attempt to catch an insect.

One of our favourite birds is the Red-crested korhaan. This morning Mrs Korhaan made an appearance but did not stay long.

From time to time we saw small groups of elephant, in the bush, browsing on trees and sometimes crossing in front of us.

This bull has a rather handsome pair of tusks

The ‘shiny’ starlings are plentiful in the park and are quite tricky to identify. This Burchell’s starling has a dark eye so is a little easier than the others.

Up until now we have seen very few wildebeest and those that we have come across have been far away or lying down. I needed to get a decent photo for my Australian friend, Erich who loves them!

Hi boys, Erich sends his regards.

By the time we arrived at Tshokwane it was half past eight and we were looking forward to a good African breakfast. This picnic site is our favourite in spite of its problems with baboons and monkeys. But shock horror – it is in the process of being taken over by new management and they were not doing cooked breakfasts! We could, however, get sandwiches, carrot cake or croissants from the shop. Fortunately they were doing Americano coffee and cappuccino. We settled for croissants and also bought some biltong. (For my non South African readers – biltong is similar to jerky but very much nicer.)

The lapa is built around an enormous tree
The entrance to Tshokwane

Hopefully they will be fully operational soon.

While paying for my coffee, I asked the cashier, “No monkeys or baboons today?”

“Do you want one?” she asked.

“How much?” I joked back.

“Free for you,” she laughed.

Well, at first there were no monkeys or baboons to steal our food but the birds made up for it.

This cheeky barbet wanted my croissant
They are usually shy birds but this one has leaned where to get a free meal!

Later a single baboon did appear but one of the staff chased it away. Perhaps during lockdown the monkeys learned not to come begging. Now all that remains is for people to learn not to feed them!

The view from the picnic site – the impala are using the dry river as a thoroughfare
So are the wildebeest
Our first Grey Hornbill of the trip – in one of the Tshokwane trees

After breakfast we headed to Orpen Dam

We were held up by a herd of buffalo heading to the dam for a drink. There were more than five hundred of them and it took at least fifteen minutes before we could get through
Elephants and buffalo were spread along the banks of the dam.
We spent half an hour enjoying the scene

The elephants were not happy that the buffalo wanted to share their watering hole. They trumpeted and complained and even tried to chase the buffalo away. Water buck and impala kept their distance at the far end of the dam. We also saw an openbill, three grey heron and some Egyptian geese.

On our way to Lower Sabi we found a male red-crested korhaan but he didn’t stick around for very long.

There was very little to see on the H10 to Lower Sabie. We stopped there at half-past eleven and bought Magnum Ice creamsi and rested a bit before making our way back to Skukuza.

Sunset Dam is usually full of activity but it was quite quiet today.

A Common Sandpiper was strutting about
Don’t swim in the dam unless you want to meet up with this guy.

There was a lot to see on the H4-1 as it runs beside the Sabie River for much of the way. We saw our first black duck on the far bank but too far for a photograph. Elephants were present at various intervals along the way.

The animals of the Kruger National Park are really privileged. They get free spa treatments whether they want them or not. The ox-peckers work really hard to keep their clients looking good. Jerry here is a very popular client and all the therapists vie to keep him in tip top shape. Have you ever seen so many of them on one animal?

This giraffe amus
Such attention to detail – not an inch of flesh is left untreated!

At one point of the river road we saw a number of cars stopped up ahead. Everyone was looking down on the river bank and on enquiry we were told that there was a very hard to see leopard in a tree far away. We moved slowly on and asked another chap if he could see it. “Listen,” he said. “Don’t waste your time here. Make your way to the bridge. There is a leopard in a tree close to the road. You can’t miss it.”

There were still several kilometers to go and we doubted that the animal would still be there but decided not to bother with the hard to see one anyway. There were too many cars fighting for position and it just wasn’t worth it.

And today was our lucky day! As we approached the bridge we could see a few cars parked on the side of the road. I saw the leopard immediately and we had a perfect spot to park straight away.

She was alert and posed beautifully
She even sat up for a while
The Earl got some lovely shots
We had a good ten minutes with her before she decided to turn her back and go to sleep!

What a perfect ending to today’s trip.

Gecko Goes to Kruger – Lower Sabie

8 December 2019

Clearly, the school holidays have started as today we saw more cars than usual on the Kruger roads.   It’s lovely to see families enjoying the wild.  It is the most awesome way to spend a holiday.  We have had our grandchildren in The Park with us before and they just loved it.

When I booked at very short notice for this holiday, I had no problems getting the camps that I desired.  The only camp that was a little tricky was Lower Sabie – it was totally booked up except for the three nights that I wanted.   So I was a little surprised and disappointed to find that this is the worst maintained camp of all that we have visited this year.  There was no hot water in the ablutions this morning.  The men’s side had blocked drains, no benches in the shower cubicle and only one hook on which to hang a towel and clothing.  Two of the camp kitchens that I went to did not have boiling water on tap.  The third kitchen I tried did.  It is really a beautiful camp and it is a pity that management here is so poor.

It rained quite heavily last night and it was still raining when we got up at 4:30 am this morning.  After a cold shower, we set off at 5:30.    It’s lovely to have the rain in Kruger but it does mean that the animals are hiding somewhere we can’t see them and when we do photography is difficult.  So today I am simply going to show you the highlights of what we saw.

IMG_7468 Hippo in a small pond 2019-12-08 5-47-47 AM
When you have a whole river to swim in why would you choose a tiny, muddy pond?

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Baby Elephant

IMG_7488 Eye to eye with an elephant 2019-12-08 9-18-42 AM
I’d just taken a cell phone photo when this ellie and I had an encounter.  The Earl took the photo

Of course, birds feature a great deal.

IMG_7491 Brown-headed Parrot 2019-12-08 9-24-28 AM
Lovely to spot some Brown-headed parrots.  This one was all wet!

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A Black-bellied Bustard spread his wings and fluffed up his feathers

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A treeful of cattle egrets

IMG_7529 Green-winged Pytilia 2019-12-08 10-28-57 AM 2019-12-08 10-28-57 AM
A Green-winged Pytilia

IMG_7561 Blue Waxbill 2019-12-08 11-04-55 AM
A Blue Waxbill

IMG_7565 Treeful of Wattled Starlings 2019-12-08 2-54-35 PM
A treeful of Wattled Starlings

IMG_7568 Male Wattled Starling 2019-12-08 2-54-56 PM
Male Wattled Starling

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An immature Martial Eagle

IMG_7573 Treeful of Barn Swallows 2019-12-08 3-09-35 PM
A Treeful of Barn Swallows

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Zebra and Giraffe enjoying each other’s company

P1190239 Giraffe And Zebra 2019-12-08 3-27-01 PM
Giraffe Browse – Zebra Graze so they do not compete for food.

 

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Wildebeest

 

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Warthogs

This morning, just outside the camp we found this impala carcass hanging in a tree.  There was no sign of the leopard who had obviously left it there.  Unless a ranger had put there as a joke!?   A few cars decided to wait and see if the predator would return.  I’m afraid we don’t have that kind of patience.  We went past it again on our return and there were still cars waiting  – nobody had seen any sign of a leopard.  When we went out in the afternoon – same story.  And on our return at 5 pm, all that could be seen was the impala hanging in the tree but still, there was a traffic jam!

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Leopard’s pantry – perhaps he likes his meat well hung!

It will be interesting to see whether the impala is still hanging there tomorrow.

This evening the Earl cooked a curry in the Smart Space pots and we sat outdoors and enjoyed the wonderful ambience of a wildlife campsite.  Two bushbabies came to visit and entertained us with their amazing ability to bounce from the ground and into the trees.

I can’t imagine a more perfect place to be.